“So many nights I dream of the ocean,
God I wish I was sailing again.
Yesterday’s over my shoulder
and I won’t look back for too long,
there’s just too much to see
waiting in front of me,
and I know that I just can’t go wrong.”
JB
The bar at Norman's Cay Beach Club was lively for a Wednesday night, or maybe it was a Thursday, I can never keep my days straight anymore. Stefan, the owner of the establishment, and I were busy refilling drinks behind the bar in between Mikey's and his brother Tommy's sets.
Mikey and Tommy Goodwin expatriated themselves down to the Bahamas years ago. The 70's may have weathered them a bit, but in their faces showed lines of smiles and their hearty laughs could fill up a room. They both looked like characters you would find in a rough and tumble bar in Key West, the type that probably drove a Harley and stayed up regularly until 4am. They both had weathered faces, Mikey's was leathered and tanned from countless years on the water in the sun-baked Bahamas. You could always count on finding him lounging on the deck of Yamacraw, sporting faded Speedos and a oversized gold chain, cigarette in one hand, a rum and coke in the other. He would wave you over and invite you aboard, as he wove tales of his crazy and often unbelieveable experiences in the Bahamas.
We drank all the rum
We smoke all de dope
All that was left was a little piece of roach
Ny ny ny….ny ny ny….ny ny ny
Ny ny ny….ny ny ny…nylon rope!
Stefan laugh was the most defining sound in the room, a smoke-rasped cackle that was contagious. His whole body heaved up and down as he laughed. We sat leaning against the back wall of the bar as Mikey strummed across from us. I sipped my Kalik beer and looked across the room at my husband, Dave. He was in deep conversation with another boater, a young man on the forefront of a trip around the world on his 42 ft ketch. He looked up and caught my eye, giving me that grin as if to say, Im rather enjoying myself at this moment.
The evening wore on, drinks were poured, songs were sung. At one point the entire bar struck up with Bye Bye Miss American Pie. Luckily someone in the crowd knew the lyrics well enough to cue us at the start of each verse. There was no noise ordinance, Im sure if anyone within hearing distance was listening, they would have joined us by now. The entire anchorage had their dinghy's ashore and were keeping company with each other this evening. Norman's Cay seemed to be the hub of the northern Exumas. Nothing on the island except an aged airstrip, a few houses on the north end and this bar and restaurant with a couple of villas, known as the Norman's Cay Beach Club, or MacDuffs. Word of mouth had passed through the boating community that there was cold beer on an otherwise deserted island. The establishment had been around for 15 years, loved by several owners, and they had a reputation. There was never a slow night, every day was a weekend.
The great thing about working at a bar where the only clientele is boaters or pilots, and being a boater myself, I always had something to talk to the customers about. I found that people would come in for happy hour and stay for a week. In our case it turned out to be more like 6 months. This evening as I looked around the bar, I could tell you everyone's story, as I had introduced myself to each of them at one point or another. Mikey we knew well. He was in every other week and usually stayed for a few days. His crew this time consisted of a friend from his past life in Chicago, his wife and his brother. There was a young couple from Boston, trying to make their way as far south as they could before hurricane season. A salty but distinguished looking sailor off of a beautiful catamaran, with a lovely younger woman sat at one quiet corner of the bar, immersed in conversation. There were three boisterous, well-to-do retired men and their wives on a large power yacht, down for a few days from Miami. Two Bahamians over from Nassau who were working on a housing project on the north end of the island came down to get off the jobsite for a bit. Everyone was scattered around the bar in their own separate conversations, but the evening had the feel of a group of people who might have known each other for years. That's how things were at The Beach Club.
As the guests slowly trickled out and Mikey's voice wore thin, we moved to the other side of the bar, pulling up a stool to finish the last remaning sips of our beer. The soft lantern lights above the bar began to sway gently in the breeze. We could smell the rain approaching. The sky rumbled overhead and the breeze cooled the stuffy bar through the screens that surrounded the mostly open-air building. The palms rustled outside. It started with a few drops...'Oh I hope we closed our hatches,' all of us boaters simutanelously fretted. Then the sky let loose as huge raindrops fell in torrents. They fell sideways, through the screens into the bar. The wind picked up and blew the blinds, whapping them on the wall. We scooted the cushioned seats away from the windows and cozied back up to the bar. Maybe just one more drink.